Even so, “dramatic” doesn’t translate into “bigger” wine. Indeed, one of the new releases for Hess from the Mount Vedeer property is a 2007 chardonnay, which is delicate and more along the lines of a Chablis than of an oaky wine. This brilliant effort is spicy and delicate and works best with lighter foods. At $35 it is actually a bargain for those who prefer this style of wine.

Likewise, there are two new sauvignon blancs in the Hess line, both from 2007. One designated as Lake County ($15), from fruit grown just north of Napa, is light and refreshing, and the other from the Allomi Vineyard ($18) in Napa is racy, herbal, and perfectly balanced.

Red wines are Hess’ forte, and Guffy is proud of the winery’s Mount Veeder cabernet sauvignon. But the sleeper of the line is a lower-priced cabernet blend of Mendocino, Lake, and Napa fruit that is one of the best value red wines I have tasted in a long time. (See the Wine of the Week below.)

Hess also is an importer of a wide range of wines from places like Australia and South Africa and also has a new pinot noir project called Sequana (three wines from Sonoma County fruit).

The attractive, art-graced tasting room is filled with little winery-only treasures like a gewurztraminer, a cabernet franc and malbec.

Without much fanfare, Hess is on the move.

Wine of the Week: 2006 Hess Cabernet Sauvignon, Three-County Blend ($17) -- Superb balanced aroma of red and black cherry fruit, dried herbs, and delicate spice. Great midpalate fruit, and wonderful taste to match with red meats.